The North Ridge of Mount Baker is a classic technical mountaineering objective and one of the finest alpine ice routes in the Lower 48. Although recent glacial recession has shortened the climbing season, the North Ridge remains a brilliant route in the late spring and early summer. Long stretches of steep snow, interspersed with moderate and steep pitches of alpine ice along the crest of an exposed ridge make this route varied and stunning.
The Easton Glacier is the most direct route up Mount Baker’s southern flank. The scenic approach up the Railroad Grade leads to camp at the toe of the Easton Glacier. From there, the route gradually steepens as it ascends past the active volcanoes crater to a final push up the Roman Wall to the summit. Whether you’re an experienced mountaineer or a first timer on glaciers, the Easton delivers the goods for climbers of all skill levels.
The Coleman Deming is a varied and engaging mountaineering objective that leads to the summit of Mount Baker, Washington’s northernmost volcano. Climbers ascend the rolling Coleman Glacier and exposed Pumice Ridge before the final climb up the steep Roman Wall to the summit plateau. This classic mountaineering route should be on every Cascade climber’s list.
The Ruth & Icy Traverse is a moderate snow climb with glacier travel known for having some of the finest views in the North Cascades. This long ridge traverse in the shadow of Mount Shuksan gives climbers passage through amazing alpine terrain with two beautiful peak ascents and a summit bivy. Big vistas and dramatic views into the Picket and Chilliwack ranges are sure to inspire a love of the North Cascades and are a stellar backdrop for a few fun days of mountaineering.
One of North America’s most sought after alpine challenges, the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is an exposed and engaging route. Combining glacier travel, snow climbing, scrambling and multipitch rock climbing, you’ll get the full alpine experience as you ascend this world class objective. The summit ridge provides excellent climbing on high quality rock rarely found in the alpine. This route is deserving of its place in the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and is a route worth daydreaming about.
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